There were good amounts of time when I was being picked up and taken to meetings - either short distances in the mornings and evenings, or longer trips to different sites and interviews around the country - when there were opportunities to talk and learn a little bit about my hosts, and the issues that make the Irish Irish.
The history of Ireland is apparent everywhere - old structure, ruins, hedgerow boundaries, and other reminders. I knew of some of the past struggles - the troubles in the northern six counties that remained British after the rest of the island received its independence - but I
A Dublin street scene |
Sport also is a significant connection to Irish heritage - just as much a part of their national pride. I was introduced to the two national passions: Gaelic Football and Hurling when asking about the flags I occasionally saw displayed on buildings around different towns - they represent the county teams. After hearing little bits about the games, I was able to recite the similarities with Australia Rules Football, and the differences and similarities compared to field hockey and lacrosse.
Declan, one of my hosts |
As we drove by the stadium at Croke Park - after having caught a glimpse of Kilmainham Jail - I heard the story of British retaliation for earlier killings of informants, but most significantly how the visit a year earlier by Queen Elizabeth and what was considered her remarkable speech. Declan recounted how everyone wondered what the Queen would say in her speech at Dublin Castle during her visit to Ireland - the "Wow" mouthed by the Irish President at the Queen's greeting - a further sign of the walk towards conciliation between the two nations.
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Gaelic Football, Hurling are Irish Passions (excerpt)
Gaelic football and hurling have been arousing Irish passions for a long, long time. Football became popular as early as the 16th century, when teams might have consisted of all the able-bodied men of a town or parish. In those earliest days, the rather unorganized game would begin between the two towns and end when one side had managed to force the ball across a line into the other's territory.
A Gaelic Football football |
Hurling is similar to lacrosse or hockey. It's played on a large pitch with a curved wooden stick (or "hurley") and a small ball (or "sliothar"). It's one of the fastest games afield, and it's not for the faint of heart. Bodies bang, the ball is as hard as a baseball, and the sticks are made of solid ash.
While Gaelic football is an old sport, hurling is ancient. Irish mythology is replete with tales of heroes, such as the legendary warrior Cú Chulainn, who were expert hurlers. Such myths point to a hurling history some 2,000 years old and the sport's prominent place in Irish tradition.
Uprights above the goal |
British Crown, a group of Irish nationalists met in County Galway to establish an organization for Irish athletes, the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). It is still the governing body of hurling and Gaelic football (as well as of ladies football and carmogie, a hurling-like sport for women).
Given these nationalist roots, it comes as no surprise that the GAA has always promoted more than just sport. "The Gaelic Athletic Association was a cultural thing," said Keane. "It was created as a direct response to the way in which Irish culture was being eliminated, and they wanted to revive that culture." To accomplish this goal, the organization focused on traditional athletics, but also on other activities. The GAA's official guide includes a mandate to "actively support the Irish language, traditional Irish dancing, music, song, and other aspects of Irish culture."
The GAA is active in all of these areas. It promotes Irish culture in much the same way it does athletics, through a network of clubs throughout the country. Competitions, called Scór, celebrate Irish literature, song, dance, music, and other traditions.
In its early years, the Gaelic games themselves took on political significance in the troubled Ireland of the time.
O'Connell Street |
The game was touched directly by the conflict. After the Irish Republican Army (IRA) killed 11 British officers in Dublin on November 21, 1920, on suspicion of espionage, government troops (the Black and Tans) exacted a reprisal by firing on the crowd at a Gaelic football game at the sport's "cathedral," Croke Park, leaving 12 spectators and one player dead. (1)
As Ireland's political situation has evolved, its sports have always been a lightning rod for nationalist feeling. Not until a few months ago was a ban lifted that forbade current or former British Army officers from participating in Gaelic athletics.
Brian Handwerk
Updated March 17, 2003
______________________________I have paid attention to a sampling of Irish poetry, but here are a few musical examples from Ireland - traditional and contemporary.
Traditional music choice |
Damien Rice |
Lisa Hannigan |
The Corrs |
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(1) I had heard the U2 song Bloody Sunday from a long time back, but had no understanding of its meaning until I put this blog together. The song can be heard clicking here.
(2) The Garden of Remembrance wreath laying, click here.
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